Today’s plans were to head to what turned out to be my favourite place in Japan yet, the beautiful town of Nara, followed by a stop at Oksaka Aquarium in the late afternoon!  Nara was Japan’s first permanent capital in the year 710, it is a very charming antiquated town. Parts of the old town have retained its share of ancient temples and old shops from its feudal past. It is like an open air museum of traditional life from a century ago just with a few additional overheard power lines and Toyota cars.

Feeding a deer

Nara is only a 50 minute train ride from Kyoto. It has a great advantage of having the majority of attractions grouped together in one huge park enabling you to walk everywhere.

The cutest attraction by far is the 1 200 wild sika deer that freely roam the huge park. They are extremely placid so you can walk up to them and stroke them no problem.  It is a strange experience to wander around and see deer at a bus stop deer, in shops, in toilets…everywhere!  Some loose change (150 Yen) will get you some sika senbei (deer crackers), they look like something you may pick up at the supermarket if you were on a terribly unexciting diet. There are kiosks dotted around the park run by elderly women. The deer seem to recognise that the kiosk ladies are not a walking vending machine, when too many congregated near the kiosk they are shooed away with a broom.

Many deer began to surround us and took a strong liking to chewing my dress.

Cute, yes, but mix that with hunger and persistence and they become cheeky and determined. Whilst some deer lazed under trees, most were engaged in some form of chase with their human visitors, nipping at clothing, legs, arms etc. My biscuits lasted approximately 20 seconds, as soon as I walked away from the kiosk, deer began running towards me. Believe me it’s actually quite scary, don’t be surprised when one head butts you or bites you because you didn’t give it your last cracker. Some have even learnt to bow, which is adorable.

All of us at one of the lakes in the park

Within the park, finely wooded with ancient trees, are many historic old buildings, including temples and pagodas, and a number of large lakes. The park is packed with many temples, but you do get to that point in Japan when you start to feel like all temples look the same. Seen it, done it! 

Mary, Tom and Ali had given up looking at more temples. As this may be our first and only trip to Nara James and I decided to continue on and I am so glad we did. 

The sight of Todaiji temple was particularly magnificent and completely unexpected. It is one of Japan's most famous and historically significant buildings. It was the head temple of all Buddhist temples in Japan, and grew so powerful that the capital was moved to Nara. It is the world’s largest wooden building, and the main hall hosts Japan's largest bronze Buddha. Along the approach to Todaiji stands the Nandaimon Gate, watched over by two fierce looking statues which represent the Nio Guardian Kings (these are now national treasures). 

Todai-ji - a very prominent and magnificent wooden building.

James and I at the entrance.

The Buddha is 15 metres tall and it is flanked by two Bodhisattvas. It is extremely difficult to give a sense of scale, but his open hand alone is taller than you r average human. 

  

Binzuru

Apart from this, there are two main quirky details about the temple. One of the pillars has a hole which is the size of one of the Buddha’s nostrils. It is said that if you pass through it, you will be blessed with enlightenment in the next life. But, there’s a catch. You either need to be a child or extremely slim to be able to pass through. 

Thankfully, nobody got stuck on their quests for enlightenment that day.

Outside the temple is a statue of Binzuru, the most widely revered disciple of Buddha. It was creepy. The Japanese believe that if you rub a part of its body and then the corresponding part of your body, you will be cured. 

The forests surrounding the temples are also beautiful and offer a great hide away from the strong sun. Strolling through Nara Park was very relaxing. A beautiful part is the walk leading to Kasuga Grand Shrine, it is flanked with gorgeous moss covered stone lanterns. It’s a romantic and mysterious sight. The Kasuga Grand Shrine is a UNESCO Heritage site and is famous for the bronze lanterns decorating its interiors.

Hundreds of moss covered lanterns line the path up to the temple

Bronze lanterns decorate the interiors of the temple

Koto (wooden stringed instrument) player at Kasuga Grand Shrine

Later that afternoon we got the train from Nara to Osaka Aquarium, also known as Kaiyukan. The aquarium is located in the Tempozan Harbour area of Osakas bay, and it is one of the world’s most spectacular and biggest aquariums. Tickets cost 2 300 Yen (£15). Marine life is displayed in over a dozen tanks, each representing a specific region of the Pacific Rim. The central tank represents the Pacific Ocean and it is home to two magnificent whale sharks, a few hammerhead sharks, some manta rays and a variety of fish. You start your tour on the top floor and spiral your way down around the central tank. Many of the tanks also stretch across several floors, giving you a great view of the animals from different depths and perspectives.

 Gazing into the large central tank.

My favourite was the jelly fish tanks. I literally had my nose pressed up against the glass; I was mesmerised by the truly beautiful but dangerous animals. 

James amongst the jelly fish!

Another jam packed day, another early night in preparation for our last full day in Kyoto.

Marion