Of all the iconic images of Japan, Mt Fuji is the real deal. With hundreds of thousands of people climbing every year, Fuji-san has captivating both Japanese and international visitors. This year was extra special and therefore extra busy as on June 22^nd 2013, much to the delight and joy of many people, this symbolic mountain was finally officially designated as a World Heritage site by UNESCO.

A simple acrylic painting of a hiker taking in the beautiful morning skies! 

Fuji-san has featured in many of my blog posts. As soon as I knew I was coming to Japan, naturally, climbing Fuji-san was on top of the “things to do in Japan before I leave” list.

Fuji-san is 3776 metres above sea level. Mention that you are climbing Fuji-san and someone is sure to ask whether you have oxygen canisters, a guide, good walking boots, professional clothing and so on..! Most of my students just questioned whether it was a good idea at all. All my adult students showed their concern and worry; many concluded that I shouldn’t go as it’s more attractive and enjoyable looking at it from afar. But, it can’t be that difficult I thought, I mean, if you were to judge the climb purely on the number of people who climb it, you’re likely to conclude that it is not a particularly hard mountain to climb. Hundreds of thousands successfully reach the summit each year, including a man who was 105 years old. So I wasn’t really that daunted by the challenge, I don’t think anyone was to be honest.

I think that my student’s main concern was my decision to take the less conventional way to climb the mountain. The most popular and safest way to climb Fuji-san is to start in the day and stay in a mountain hut near the summit. But, even though we are earning a very good wage, you can’t take the money saving students out of us just yet. Rather than forking out 5500 – 8000 Yen we decided to walk through the night skipping a stay in a hut. Climbing through the night is discouraged by the locals and authorities as weather changes quickly, temperatures are low and visibility is poor. Those who climb through the night are called弾丸登山 (danger-tozan) which means bullet climbing. But not many can say they have climbed a mountain through the night. Challenge accepted.  

The newly elevated status from UNESCO has sent a record number of climbers up Japan highest and most prominent mountain, and on Friday 26^th July, we decided to join this year’s craze. The sun was shining in Numazu as we walked through the city to the train station in our hiking gear. At this point I thought that I had packed too many layers, it was sweltering. We jumped on the train to Mishima where we caught a direct bus to Fujinomiya 5^th station, to walk the second most popular trail – Fujinomiya trial. The bus cost us 3000 Yen return which is pretty good, but it wasn’t the comfy coach I had imagined, more like an Arriva service bus.  The dream of a return journey with comfy reclining seats and air-con to rest our exhausted bodies was going to remain no more than a just a dream.

As we began to drive to fifth station, the weather began to change remarkably quickly. One minute it was sunny the next it was windy and cold. We arrived at 5^th station at 4:15pm which gave us enough time to relax, eat our bento (lunch) that we had bought in Numazu, and play some cards before setting off at about 8pm.

T minus 30 minutes before departure and the heavens opened!! We were hit in the face by the harsh conditions of nature. It rained and rained and rained, the wind had picked up and thick cloud had wrapped around Mt Fuji. It was at this point (a little late) that we realized that we were slightly unprepared. James, Mary and I had forgotten waterproof trousers, Ali had nothing but a Pikachu onesie for extra layers and Michael had the worst walking footwear ever! Not only were Michaels shoes very thin and uncomfortable, but they were not waterproof. Oh No! James and I decided to splash out and get some cheap waterproof trousers from the small shop; thank goodness we did as they were essential when we reached the top.

All smiles at the start before the rain, wind, fog and lightning.

    

All of us

Thankfully the rain began to slow down and we started off in great spirits, laughing and singing, we had lots of energy which felt, at the time, like it would last all night. Very early on in the assent we overtook a large group led by guides using flags to shepherd their followers. Whilst you want to avoid standing in queues, I believe that you shouldn't miss out on one of the most interesting aspects of climbing, which is the camaraderie and unique experience of ascending the mountain among hundreds of equally minded people from across the world. 

The wind got stronger and the cloud got thicker as we climbed higher. At times the cloud was so thick you couldn't see who was in front of you! But when the clouds broke the view was truly incredible. James and I often spent a few minutes catching our breaths and taking in the view. Look down and you are treated to a spectacular light show. The lights from towns surrounding Fuji-san shone brightly and you could see an accumulating snake of lights growing longer and tighter as fellow hikers slowly made their way up. What was really incredible was watching a lightning storm below us.

The sky below us was illuminated by strikes of lightning. Lightning bolts jumped from cloud to cloud, to the ground, to the cities below us. It’s not like watching a lightning storm from the ground, head on, watching were every lightning bolt struck. There was silence, no thunder, no sound, nothing. It was strange to watch the world around us in beautiful chaos whilst we quietly watched on from above. I stopped and started several times on the way up as I was mesmerised by the lightning show below is.

We were far enough away that it didn't feel dangerous. It was simply beautiful. I wish I could have taken photos but they weren't coming out well.

Desperately trying to get warm we joined a loan hiker in a small alcove.

Onwards and upwards! From the very start there was very little shelter we were totally exposed to the freezing air and battering winds. At station 8 we realized that we were well ahead of time and storming up the mountain. There was a small alcove with a man standing in the corning, not moving, not talking, nothing. Despite the fact we had no idea who this man was, it was time to huddle up right next to him as it was the only sheltered spot we had seen for the whole journey. Our topic of conversation at this point… what would bear grills do right now? Ali concluded “he would skin this chap and sleep inside his body.” And on that note, half an hour later our lack of movement meant our bodies were cooling down so we marched upwards.

At station 9 it was 11pm and we were nearly at the top. With no shelter we all piled into the first aid hut which gave us a chance to change out of our sweat-drenched clothing. It wasn't heated but it gave us some much needed shelter from the wind. All the huts were packed with sleeping climbers; there was no room in the huts for any more. Many people huffed, puffed and groaned very loudly in relief as they reached the next station, but two seconds later a small Japanese man would hurry out of his hut to tell hikers to be quiet. It was very comical to watch as his words seemed to go in one ear and out the other, as soon as he turned his back, hikers continued to huff, puff and groan rather loudly.

Then we reached the summit. You are probably thinking that the rest was easy; simply watch the sunset and descent the mountain. Oh boy, are you wrong! In reality, the hours between our final ascent and the sunrise were the most difficult part of the whole ordeal.

You see we reached the summit at around 2:30 am. The sun wasn't scheduled to rise until 4:45am. This meant that we had over 2 hours to wait, wearing only sweat-drenched clothing. It was at this point that our cheap waterproofs which we purchased at 5^th station at the start of the hike provided a little more warmth. As soon as we stopped moving, our body’s inner furnace stopped burning, and the cold began to seep through our bodies. There were a few other early arrivals on the peak. Many were snuggled up in their sleeping bags and silver foil wraps. Clearly more prepared than us. All the huts on the summit were closed until the morning, so we all huddled together against a wall and closed our eyes hoping that time would fly. In fact, it was the longest two hours ever. It was at this point I swore never to complain about the heat again, but if you have read my last post you will know that this promise didn't last long.  

Finally it was time to huddle amongst the hundreds of people to watch the sunrise. The sun was stubborn that day, hiding behind thick layers of cloud. But every so often it broke through the cloud. I snapped a few photos but it was so cold and cloudy that after a quick discussion we decided that we’d seen enough, and began heading down the mountain.  

On the top of Japan with my best friend! You most probably cant tell but I had reached desperate measures to keep warm and decided to use my spare leggings as a head scarf. 

We did it!! All of us enjoying the morning sun, such a great accomplishment. 

What goes up must come down! As we headed down the mountain, below the clouds the morning skies were beautiful and the inspiration for my painting.  I found walking down worse than walking up. I am grateful for my good hiking boots. The lack of grip on many people’s shoes made for 4 hours of taking one step and sliding three feet. It was nice to be basking in the morning sun on the way down and to see the mountain huts bustling with tourists. 

A long line of hikers waiting to get to the summit as we
were making our way down. 

The majority of people had just started the climb, so everyone we passed, we often greeted and wished them luck on their way up! I must have said ohio guasimas (good morning) hundreds of times! I loved that everyone want to talk to us, ask us where we were from etc. there was a great atmosphere. In fact Ali came a bit of a celebrity, at this point he had his Pikachu onesie on and many people stopped to point, laugh and take photos.

Finally about 3 and a half hours later we had arrived at where we had started. Time to face a 2 hour bus journey, no air-con, hard seats, aching limbs…. But nothing could stop us from snoozing!  

Making our way down! Its pretty hard not too spot
the Pikachu 

I agree with the majority of people, Fuji-san does look more attractive from afar than close up. However, the views (when there is no cloud) are incredible and the experience of climbing through the night and the early hours of the morning among hundreds of equally like-minded hikers from across the world is very rewarding. What made it for me was completing it with some of my favourite people. We could have been a little more prepared clothing wise, rooky mistake, but otherwise the climb is not difficult and a very rewarding experience.

On a side note, thank you to everyone who is reading my blog!! I've had over 2500 viewers from around the world. I have a passion for art and would love a career that utilises my talent, but its a tough industry to break into. I am going to keep trying though. 

Marion