On the second day of our tour we explored Kyoto, more specifically the North western side of Kyoto.

First stop was one of Kyotos best known tourist sites, Kinkakuji or more commonly known to us as the Golden Pavilion. It is only 500 Yen to enter the grounds but as you can imagine it is always busy. It really is a magnificent building, although it looked smaller than I imagined. The top floors of the Zen temple are completely covered in gold leaf and it is built over a large pond. The pond acts as a mirror beautifully reflecting the temple.  The temple is not the only site to see in the temple grounds, you can walk around the pond and through the beautiful gardens that have kept its original design. It’s a definite must see, but it is very touristy! This is a painting of Kinkakuji. 

We decided to stay in Western Kyoto and make our way across to Arashiyama, where the famous bamboo grove is located. We walked about 20 minutes from Kinkakuji temple to a nearby station and rather than getting the conventional JR train we decided to hop on the Keifuku electric railroad. This is one of James’ favourite memories of our trip due to its historical past and leisurely qualities away from the tourist hustle and bustle. Boarding the train we stood near the front of a single car. James and I stared ahead out the front window in order to share the best view with our conductor. The metal wheels were clanging over the track, the breaks were squealing and the horn occasionally blew to warn nearby cars. All too soon, we arrived at our destination. To pay the fare we dropped 200 Yen in a plastic box at the front of the station.

Model James

Arashiyama Station is an attraction in itself. The station reopened only a few days before our arrival with a brand new interior design scheme. There are a number of little shops selling traditional sweets and beverages as well as plenty of places to sit. The east side of the station features beautiful acrylic poles draped with traditional yuzen dyed kimono fabrics, illuminated from within by LEDs. It is referred to as the “kimono forest” and it seemed to bring out the “model” in James.

Arashiyama is a pleasant, touristy district and it is where the famous Sagano bamboo grove is located. A path cuts straight through the bamboo grove which allows you to stand amidst the soaring stalks of bamboo. If you pick up a Japanese guide book you will probably see pictures of the bamboo grove, it is one of the most photographed places in Japan, but no picture can capture the feeling of standing in the midst of this sprawling and towering bamboo grove, it’s nothing quite like that of any forests we know of.  The setting is truly picturesque as the sun’s rays shine through the grove and a soft breeze can be heard.

Sagano bamboo grove 

Sagano bamboo grove 

Just before setting off on our day out we had seen an advert for a boat ride in the Arashiyama area, our plan was to catch the last boat of the day (3:30pm). As ever, we were running a little behind schedule! It was only until after purchasing our train ticket from Arashiyama station to Kameoka (where the boats were being launched) that we realise that the next train wasn’t until 3:17pm. The leaflet stated that it takes 10 minutes to the nearest station (Kameoka) and another 8 minutes at a fast jog to the launching site from the station. Now I am not good at Maths, but with time against us and the ultra-precise timekeeping ability of the Japanese, it was safe to assume that we were going to miss the last boat. This wasn’t going to stop us from trying, as we dashed out of Kameoka station some men behind us shouted “boat ride” “boat ride.” It looked like the boats were going nowhere as the captains of the boats were running a little behind schedule too. Japanese extreme precision 90, Gaijin luck 1. Thankfully they radioed ahead for us and there was a boat waiting for us.

The cruises utilise traditional style flat bottomed boats piloted by boatmen who guide the craft with an oar and bamboo poles. It is an attraction that is often sadly missed by many tourists. Hozugawa now only serves as a tourist attraction but it used to be an industrial waterway for transporting logs and timber which were used to construct many of Kyoto and Osakas famous temples and castles.

On-board the wooden flat bottomed boat. 

Source: Arashiyama boat ride website

This 16 kilometre, 2 hour journey down the river, travelling from Kameoka to Arashiyama, showcases interesting rock formations, diverse   wildlife and an exciting ravine ride. As soon as you leave the small town of Kameoka, you enter steep forest gorges on either side. It is very relaxing way to see the natural scenery of the largely undeveloped ravine. The majority of the boat ride is fairly calm; however, there are a few sections with some small rapids. At one point in the trip, the oars men took great enjoyment when my lower body got drenched. The oars men were great fun and experts at spotting the wildlife including turtles, cormorants, and even monkeys!! One and a half hours in and were all starting to get a little peckish (more like starving in Ali and Toms case), soon after, our prayers were answered and a little wooden motorboat with a rather rotund man and his wife pulled up alongside and cooked fresh octopus right in front of us.  The boat ride is a little pricey at 3900 Yen (£25) but certainly worth it.

Cormorant fishing 

After two hours we disembarked off the boat in Arashiyama and took a stroll along the river. We were waiting for the Ukai, also known as cormorant fishing to begin. We opted to sit and watch from the river bank but you can pay roughly 2000 Yen (£13) to watch the action up close on a small wooden boat. Cormorant fishing happens in the summer months, and in about a dozen rivers throughout Japan. Each fisherman leads about a dozen cormorants on leashes that swim alongside the boat and dive under water to catch fish by swallowing them whole. The fish are kept in a special pouch in the cormorant’s throat to be retrieved later and are prevented from being swallowed by a snare around the neck of the bird. Each boat has a large fire that hangs from its bow to provide light for the boatmen to steer and the birds to fish by. It was interesting to watch but the fishing only lasted about 15 minutes and I couldn’t help but feel sorry for the cormorants.

After a jam packed day, we hopped on the train back to Kyoto station, ate some delicious fresh sushi and after Tom tried (and failed) to explain poker to my sister and I we turned in for the night. 

Next stop Nara and Osaka Aquarium! 

Marion