Wednesday 25 September 2013

Today’s plans were to head to what turned out to be my favourite place in Japan yet, the beautiful town of Nara, followed by a stop at Oksaka Aquarium in the late afternoon!  Nara was Japan’s first permanent capital in the year 710, it is a very charming antiquated town. Parts of the old town have retained its share of ancient temples and old shops from its feudal past. It is like an open air museum of traditional life from a century ago just with a few additional overheard power lines and Toyota cars.

Feeding a deer
Nara is only a 50 minute train ride from Kyoto. It has a great advantage of having the majority of attractions grouped together in one huge park enabling you to walk everywhere.

The cutest attraction by far is the 1 200 wild sika deer that freely roam the huge park. They are extremely placid so you can walk up to them and stroke them no problem.  It is a strange experience to wander around and see deer at a bus stop deer, in shops, in toilets…everywhere!  Some loose change (150 Yen) will get you some sika senbei (deer crackers), they look like something you may pick up at the supermarket if you were on a terribly unexciting diet. There are kiosks dotted around the park run by elderly women. The deer seem to recognise that the kiosk ladies are not a walking vending machine, when too many congregated near the kiosk they are shooed away with a broom.

Many deer began to surround us and took a strong liking to chewing my dress.
Cute, yes, but mix that with hunger and persistence and they become cheeky and determined. Whilst some deer lazed under trees, most were engaged in some form of chase with their human visitors, nipping at clothing, legs, arms etc. My biscuits lasted approximately 20 seconds, as soon as I walked away from the kiosk, deer began running towards me. Believe me it’s actually quite scary, don’t be surprised when one head butts you or bites you because you didn’t give it your last cracker. Some have even learnt to bow, which is adorable.
All of us at one of the lakes in the park

Within the park, finely wooded with ancient trees, are many historic old buildings, including temples and pagodas, and a number of large lakes. The park is packed with many temples, but you do get to that point in Japan when you start to feel like all temples look the same. Seen it, done it! 

Mary, Tom and Ali had given up looking at more temples. As this may be our first and only trip to Nara James and I decided to continue on and I am so glad we did. 

The sight of Todaiji temple was particularly magnificent and completely unexpected. It is one of Japan's most famous and historically significant buildings. It was the head temple of all Buddhist temples in Japan, and grew so powerful that the capital was moved to Nara. It is the world’s largest wooden building, and the main hall hosts Japan's largest bronze Buddha. Along the approach to Todaiji stands the Nandaimon Gate, watched over by two fierce looking statues which represent the Nio Guardian Kings (these are now national treasures). 

Todai-ji - a very prominent and magnificent wooden building.


James and I at the entrance.

The Buddha is 15 metres tall and it is flanked by two Bodhisattvas. It is extremely difficult to give a sense of scale, but his open hand alone is taller than you r average human. 

  
Binzuru
Apart from this, there are two main quirky details about the temple. One of the pillars has a hole which is the size of one of the Buddha’s nostrils. It is said that if you pass through it, you will be blessed with enlightenment in the next life. But, there’s a catch. You either need to be a child or extremely slim to be able to pass through. 

Thankfully, nobody got stuck on their quests for enlightenment that day.

Outside the temple is a statue of Binzuru, the most widely revered disciple of Buddha. It was creepy. The Japanese believe that if you rub a part of its body and then the corresponding part of your body, you will be cured. 

The forests surrounding the temples are also beautiful and offer a great hide away from the strong sun. Strolling through Nara Park was very relaxing. A beautiful part is the walk leading to Kasuga Grand Shrine, it is flanked with gorgeous moss covered stone lanterns. It’s a romantic and mysterious sight. The Kasuga Grand Shrine is a UNESCO Heritage site and is famous for the bronze lanterns decorating its interiors.

Hundreds of moss covered lanterns line the path up to the temple
Bronze lanterns decorate the interiors of the temple


Koto (wooden stringed instrument) player at Kasuga Grand Shrine
Later that afternoon we got the train from Nara to Osaka Aquarium, also known as Kaiyukan. The aquarium is located in the Tempozan Harbour area of Osakas bay, and it is one of the world’s most spectacular and biggest aquariums. Tickets cost 2 300 Yen (£15). Marine life is displayed in over a dozen tanks, each representing a specific region of the Pacific Rim. The central tank represents the Pacific Ocean and it is home to two magnificent whale sharks, a few hammerhead sharks, some manta rays and a variety of fish. You start your tour on the top floor and spiral your way down around the central tank. Many of the tanks also stretch across several floors, giving you a great view of the animals from different depths and perspectives.

 Gazing into the large central tank.


My favourite was the jelly fish tanks. I literally had my nose pressed up against the glass; I was mesmerised by the truly beautiful but dangerous animals. 

James amongst the jelly fish!
Another jam packed day, another early night in preparation for our last full day in Kyoto.

Marion

Tuesday 24 September 2013

On the second day of our tour we explored Kyoto, more specifically the North western side of Kyoto.

First stop was one of Kyotos best known tourist sites, Kinkakuji or more commonly known to us as the Golden Pavilion. It is only 500 Yen to enter the grounds but as you can imagine it is always busy. It really is a magnificent building, although it looked smaller than I imagined. The top floors of the Zen temple are completely covered in gold leaf and it is built over a large pond. The pond acts as a mirror beautifully reflecting the temple.  The temple is not the only site to see in the temple grounds, you can walk around the pond and through the beautiful gardens that have kept its original design. It’s a definite must see, but it is very touristy! This is a painting of Kinkakuji. 




We decided to stay in Western Kyoto and make our way across to Arashiyama, where the famous bamboo grove is located. We walked about 20 minutes from Kinkakuji temple to a nearby station and rather than getting the conventional JR train we decided to hop on the Keifuku electric railroad. This is one of James’ favourite memories of our trip due to its historical past and leisurely qualities away from the tourist hustle and bustle. Boarding the train we stood near the front of a single car. James and I stared ahead out the front window in order to share the best view with our conductor. The metal wheels were clanging over the track, the breaks were squealing and the horn occasionally blew to warn nearby cars. All too soon, we arrived at our destination. To pay the fare we dropped 200 Yen in a plastic box at the front of the station.

Model James
Arashiyama Station is an attraction in itself. The station reopened only a few days before our arrival with a brand new interior design scheme. There are a number of little shops selling traditional sweets and beverages as well as plenty of places to sit. The east side of the station features beautiful acrylic poles draped with traditional yuzen dyed kimono fabrics, illuminated from within by LEDs. It is referred to as the “kimono forest” and it seemed to bring out the “model” in James.


Arashiyama is a pleasant, touristy district and it is where the famous Sagano bamboo grove is located. A path cuts straight through the bamboo grove which allows you to stand amidst the soaring stalks of bamboo. If you pick up a Japanese guide book you will probably see pictures of the bamboo grove, it is one of the most photographed places in Japan, but no picture can capture the feeling of standing in the midst of this sprawling and towering bamboo grove, it’s nothing quite like that of any forests we know of.  The setting is truly picturesque as the sun’s rays shine through the grove and a soft breeze can be heard.

Sagano bamboo grove 
Sagano bamboo grove 






















Just before setting off on our day out we had seen an advert for a boat ride in the Arashiyama area, our plan was to catch the last boat of the day (3:30pm). As ever, we were running a little behind schedule! It was only until after purchasing our train ticket from Arashiyama station to Kameoka (where the boats were being launched) that we realise that the next train wasn’t until 3:17pm. The leaflet stated that it takes 10 minutes to the nearest station (Kameoka) and another 8 minutes at a fast jog to the launching site from the station. Now I am not good at Maths, but with time against us and the ultra-precise timekeeping ability of the Japanese, it was safe to assume that we were going to miss the last boat. This wasn’t going to stop us from trying, as we dashed out of Kameoka station some men behind us shouted “boat ride” “boat ride.” It looked like the boats were going nowhere as the captains of the boats were running a little behind schedule too. Japanese extreme precision 90, Gaijin luck 1. Thankfully they radioed ahead for us and there was a boat waiting for us.

The cruises utilise traditional style flat bottomed boats piloted by boatmen who guide the craft with an oar and bamboo poles. It is an attraction that is often sadly missed by many tourists. Hozugawa now only serves as a tourist attraction but it used to be an industrial waterway for transporting logs and timber which were used to construct many of Kyoto and Osakas famous temples and castles.

On-board the wooden flat bottomed boat. 
Source: Arashiyama boat ride website
This 16 kilometre, 2 hour journey down the river, travelling from Kameoka to Arashiyama, showcases interesting rock formations, diverse   wildlife and an exciting ravine ride. As soon as you leave the small town of Kameoka, you enter steep forest gorges on either side. It is very relaxing way to see the natural scenery of the largely undeveloped ravine. The majority of the boat ride is fairly calm; however, there are a few sections with some small rapids. At one point in the trip, the oars men took great enjoyment when my lower body got drenched. The oars men were great fun and experts at spotting the wildlife including turtles, cormorants, and even monkeys!! One and a half hours in and were all starting to get a little peckish (more like starving in Ali and Toms case), soon after, our prayers were answered and a little wooden motorboat with a rather rotund man and his wife pulled up alongside and cooked fresh octopus right in front of us.  The boat ride is a little pricey at 3900 Yen (£25) but certainly worth it.

Cormorant fishing 
After two hours we disembarked off the boat in Arashiyama and took a stroll along the river. We were waiting for the Ukai, also known as cormorant fishing to begin. We opted to sit and watch from the river bank but you can pay roughly 2000 Yen (£13) to watch the action up close on a small wooden boat. Cormorant fishing happens in the summer months, and in about a dozen rivers throughout Japan. Each fisherman leads about a dozen cormorants on leashes that swim alongside the boat and dive under water to catch fish by swallowing them whole. The fish are kept in a special pouch in the cormorant’s throat to be retrieved later and are prevented from being swallowed by a snare around the neck of the bird. Each boat has a large fire that hangs from its bow to provide light for the boatmen to steer and the birds to fish by. It was interesting to watch but the fishing only lasted about 15 minutes and I couldn’t help but feel sorry for the cormorants.

After a jam packed day, we hopped on the train back to Kyoto station, ate some delicious fresh sushi and after Tom tried (and failed) to explain poker to my sister and I we turned in for the night

Next stop Nara and Osaka Aquarium! 

Marion 

Thursday 12 September 2013

After using our home in Numazu as our base for the first few days, it was time to venture beyond our small coastal city!

Hanshin Tigers game in Osaka was the stop on our trip outside Numazu! 
Travelling around Japan is expensive! When I first started to plan our trip I was horrified by the costs, there seemed to be no cheap way to get anywhere. Domestic flights are expensive (although discount airlines are starting to pop-up), the shinkansen (bullet train) costs an arm and a leg, and even a quick road trip costs a fortune due to highway tolls and fuel prices. But I was determined to find another way.

Seisihun 18 Kippu (Youth 18 Ticket) 
The mission was to get from Numazu to Kyoto, which is almost exactly the same distance from London to Chester (my home city in the UK), for as little money as possible. To give you a little comparison, a return ticket, purchased on the day, from London Euston to Chester usually costs me £49.  Numazu to Kyoto by Shinkansen costs roughly 22 000 Yen (£142) return!! Those who come to Japan on a tourist visa can get a 7 or 14 day rail pass for the Shinkansen, but as you can imagine these cost hundreds and are not available to those on a working visa or a working holiday visa.

After a bit of a search I came across the Seishun 18 Kippu (youth 18 ticket), and what a find it was. The name is quite misleading. Whilst JR markets this ticket to poor university students and young adults, everybody and anybody can purchase and use it.

The ticket costs 11 500 Yen (£71) and is sold three times a year (so check before you travel to see if its available as dates change every year). Luckily the summer ticket was on sale the day before we departed! It is one ticket, but is serves as an individual ticket for 5 days (the days don’t have to be consecutive). So you can travel as far as you like in one day all for the princely sum of 2 300 Yen (£15). Furthermore, the ticket can be used by more than one person. Instead of only you using the ticket for 5 days, you could use it one day but with five people – this is exactly what we did.  The catch…you can only use local JR trains (so it is slow).

On the 29th July, after realising that our clock was 10 minutes slow, we made a mad and sweaty dash to the station, making it just in time for out 5AM train (thankfully, I had purchased our ticket the night before). We hopped on the train and embarked on our 6 hour journey, Numazu- Hamamatsu – Toyohashi – Ogaki –Maibara – Kyoto.  Thanks to Japanese precision the journey went without a hitch and we even managed to catch some zzzs. We arrived just before Midday in Kyoto, pleasantly surprised with how the journey had gone.

I had made the decision to stay in one hostel based in Kyoto and use it as our base for a week of travelling. We stayed at the piece hostel just a short 2 minute walk from Kyoto’s main station. I have to say it was the best hostel I have ever stayed in! In fact, it was more like a hotel; the facilities were amazing, friendly staff, free breakfast and most importantly extremely comfy semi-double beds. We stayed in a shared dorm for only 2 300 Yen (£13.50) per night. I honestly would pay double that to stay again!

After a quick pit-stop in the hostel we jumped on the train to Osaka, as we had booked tickets to see a baseball game. Our youth train ticket was still valid until midnight that day so it saved us even more money. I have since worked out that the youth ticket saved us roughly £80 EACH that day.

    
Me in Osaka castle gardens
We had a few hours to kill before the game, so we enjoyed some delicious ramen and jumped on the subway to see Osaka castle. Originally the castle was a display of power; it is a famous landmark, popular sightseeing spot, and the symbol of Osaka. It is a grand sight that can be matched by no other castle in Japan. We also met a Japanese man that taught us some origami and gave me a hand painted book mark!

James and I crossing the bridge to the castle

Bang bang! What was that? Oh it’s just Mary making a gun with her fingers and pointing them at a 
random passers-by to see his reaction! Obviously his reaction was one of utter bemusement!  Why? The Osaka Bang of course! According to the Osaka bang video (I tried to add the video to my blog but failed, I am technically inept) the people in Osaka know how to have a good time. If you make a gun with your fingers and point it at them their reactions are meant to be priceless. If you don't believe me fllow this link and check it out:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=WknMhk9J_EE

But after Marys first and failed attempt I started to doubt this theory. Did this stop the boys? Oh No! Tom then pretends to pull out a machine gun on the subway system. Oh Dear! After many attempts (mainly from Tom) and significant embarrassment I can confirm that this does not work.

Tom, Mary and I ready for the game
After a few hours exploring Osaka it was time for chanting, chanting and more chanting. When most people think of baseball they think of America. However, I can assure you now that Japanese baseball games are extremely popular and very entertaining.  We went to watch the Hanshin Tigers vs Yakult Swallows. I had been told by many of my students that the Hanshin Tigers baseball club has Japans most passionate sporting supporters.

Arriving at the stadium, I immediately got the feeling that this was serious business. Hanshin fans are like no others. Lining the path to the entrance were back-to-back street vendors selling merchandise, in addition to two official Tigers shops. Fans wondered around in a sea of white, yellow and black, wearing Hashin Tigers towels around their heads to combat the high summer heat. Foreigners get a lot of attention at these games, and throughout Japan, because…we are foreign. This attention was certainly accentuated by the fact that we decided to go wearing Tiger oneises. Oh Yes! Primark onesies made it all the way from the UK (thanks to Tom) so we could stand out even more! It is all fun, especially if you need to grab the beer ladies attention. We were also given a free T-shirt each, which was a nice little souvenir (and a good PJ top).

We had the cheapest tickets, 1900 Yen (£12), so we were seated in the outfield on the Tigers side. We finally made it to our seats after many high fives as we climbed the stairs through the crowds. From start to finish I was lost. None of us really had any idea what was going on. However, the atmosphere was electric and it was impossible not to enjoy it.

James and I in the stadium 
Japanese baseball games have people whose job it is to lead the crowd in cheering, and a drummer to keep the crowd together, they are essentially conductors. Every player has their own chant. About 90% of the stadium was Hashin Tigers supporters, so when Tigers were up the whole stadium erupted with the voices of over forty thousand fans chanting things I couldn’t understand and batting their plastic bats. I did join in with one line it went something like “oooh ooooh oooooh HASHIN TIGERS! HURRAY HURRAY HURRAY HURRAY!” The rest we improvised and added our own lyrics too.  

It is forbidden to do the Mexican wave, I am not sure why, so please enlighten me if you know. However, a famous fan tradition is to release tens of thousands of rather dodgy looking balloons into the air immediately following the seventh inning stretch and the singing of the Tigers fight song. Now, we didn’t know about this tradition, but we were passed some balloons by the crowds so we could join in. Everyone released the balloons at the same time making a very high pitch squeal. 

Blowing up the balloons 

Releasing the balloons
Following the game we joined the queue for the subway. Again Japanese precision shone through, yes it was crowded but we were swiftly put on a subway bound for Kyoto with no problems what so ever. More of a problem was the fact that it looked like Tom was going to pass out from the heat. As Tom started to turn an interesting shade of grey, three ladies surrounding him in the queue decided to start fanning him to prevent him for keeling over amongst thousands of lairy Tigers fans.  

It was a fantastic day and I would highly recommend going to a Japanese baseball game. Dress up and get involved!

My next post will be about exploring Kyoto! I am slowly but surely catching up on my blog posts.  

Marion

Monday 2 September 2013

Of all the iconic images of Japan, Mt Fuji is the real deal. With hundreds of thousands of people climbing every year, Fuji-san has captivating both Japanese and international visitors. This year was extra special and therefore extra busy as on June 22nd 2013, much to the delight and joy of many people, this symbolic mountain was finally officially designated as a World Heritage site by UNESCO.

A simple acrylic painting of a hiker taking in the beautiful morning skies! 
Fuji-san has featured in many of my blog posts. As soon as I knew I was coming to Japan, naturally, climbing Fuji-san was on top of the “things to do in Japan before I leave” list.

Fuji-san is 3776 metres above sea level. Mention that you are climbing Fuji-san and someone is sure to ask whether you have oxygen canisters, a guide, good walking boots, professional clothing and so on..! Most of my students just questioned whether it was a good idea at all. All my adult students showed their concern and worry; many concluded that I shouldn’t go as it’s more attractive and enjoyable looking at it from afar. But, it can’t be that difficult I thought, I mean, if you were to judge the climb purely on the number of people who climb it, you’re likely to conclude that it is not a particularly hard mountain to climb. Hundreds of thousands successfully reach the summit each year, including a man who was 105 years old. So I wasn’t really that daunted by the challenge, I don’t think anyone was to be honest.

I think that my student’s main concern was my decision to take the less conventional way to climb the mountain. The most popular and safest way to climb Fuji-san is to start in the day and stay in a mountain hut near the summit. But, even though we are earning a very good wage, you can’t take the money saving students out of us just yet. Rather than forking out 5500 – 8000 Yen we decided to walk through the night skipping a stay in a hut. Climbing through the night is discouraged by the locals and authorities as weather changes quickly, temperatures are low and visibility is poor. Those who climb through the night are called弾丸登山 (danger-tozan) which means bullet climbing. But not many can say they have climbed a mountain through the night. Challenge accepted.  

The newly elevated status from UNESCO has sent a record number of climbers up Japan highest and most prominent mountain, and on Friday 26th July, we decided to join this year’s craze. The sun was shining in Numazu as we walked through the city to the train station in our hiking gear. At this point I thought that I had packed too many layers, it was sweltering. We jumped on the train to Mishima where we caught a direct bus to Fujinomiya 5th station, to walk the second most popular trail – Fujinomiya trial. The bus cost us 3000 Yen return which is pretty good, but it wasn’t the comfy coach I had imagined, more like an Arriva service bus.  The dream of a return journey with comfy reclining seats and air-con to rest our exhausted bodies was going to remain no more than a just a dream.

As we began to drive to fifth station, the weather began to change remarkably quickly. One minute it was sunny the next it was windy and cold. We arrived at 5th station at 4:15pm which gave us enough time to relax, eat our bento (lunch) that we had bought in Numazu, and play some cards before setting off at about 8pm.

T minus 30 minutes before departure and the heavens opened!! We were hit in the face by the harsh conditions of nature. It rained and rained and rained, the wind had picked up and thick cloud had wrapped around Mt Fuji. It was at this point (a little late) that we realized that we were slightly unprepared. James, Mary and I had forgotten waterproof trousers, Ali had nothing but a Pikachu onesie for extra layers and Michael had the worst walking footwear ever! Not only were Michaels shoes very thin and uncomfortable, but they were not waterproof. Oh No! James and I decided to splash out and get some cheap waterproof trousers from the small shop; thank goodness we did as they were essential when we reached the top.

All smiles at the start before the rain, wind, fog and lightning.
    
All of us
Thankfully the rain began to slow down and we started off in great spirits, laughing and singing, we had lots of energy which felt, at the time, like it would last all night. Very early on in the assent we overtook a large group led by guides using flags to shepherd their followers. Whilst you want to avoid standing in queues, I believe that you shouldn't miss out on one of the most interesting aspects of climbing, which is the camaraderie and unique experience of ascending the mountain among hundreds of equally minded people from across the world. 

The wind got stronger and the cloud got thicker as we climbed higher. At times the cloud was so thick you couldn't see who was in front of you! But when the clouds broke the view was truly incredible. James and I often spent a few minutes catching our breaths and taking in the view. Look down and you are treated to a spectacular light show. The lights from towns surrounding Fuji-san shone brightly and you could see an accumulating snake of lights growing longer and tighter as fellow hikers slowly made their way up. What was really incredible was watching a lightning storm below us.

The sky below us was illuminated by strikes of lightning. Lightning bolts jumped from cloud to cloud, to the ground, to the cities below us. It’s not like watching a lightning storm from the ground, head on, watching were every lightning bolt struck. There was silence, no thunder, no sound, nothing. It was strange to watch the world around us in beautiful chaos whilst we quietly watched on from above. I stopped and started several times on the way up as I was mesmerised by the lightning show below is.

We were far enough away that it didn't feel dangerous. It was simply beautiful. I wish I could have taken photos but they weren't coming out well.

Desperately trying to get warm we joined a loan hiker in a small alcove.
Onwards and upwards! From the very start there was very little shelter we were totally exposed to the freezing air and battering winds. At station 8 we realized that we were well ahead of time and storming up the mountain. There was a small alcove with a man standing in the corning, not moving, not talking, nothing. Despite the fact we had no idea who this man was, it was time to huddle up right next to him as it was the only sheltered spot we had seen for the whole journey. Our topic of conversation at this point… what would bear grills do right now? Ali concluded “he would skin this chap and sleep inside his body.” And on that note, half an hour later our lack of movement meant our bodies were cooling down so we marched upwards.

At station 9 it was 11pm and we were nearly at the top. With no shelter we all piled into the first aid hut which gave us a chance to change out of our sweat-drenched clothing. It wasn't heated but it gave us some much needed shelter from the wind. All the huts were packed with sleeping climbers; there was no room in the huts for any more. Many people huffed, puffed and groaned very loudly in relief as they reached the next station, but two seconds later a small Japanese man would hurry out of his hut to tell hikers to be quiet. It was very comical to watch as his words seemed to go in one ear and out the other, as soon as he turned his back, hikers continued to huff, puff and groan rather loudly.

Then we reached the summit. You are probably thinking that the rest was easy; simply watch the sunset and descent the mountain. Oh boy, are you wrong! In reality, the hours between our final ascent and the sunrise were the most difficult part of the whole ordeal.

You see we reached the summit at around 2:30 am. The sun wasn't scheduled to rise until 4:45am. This meant that we had over 2 hours to wait, wearing only sweat-drenched clothing. It was at this point that our cheap waterproofs which we purchased at 5th station at the start of the hike provided a little more warmth. As soon as we stopped moving, our body’s inner furnace stopped burning, and the cold began to seep through our bodies. There were a few other early arrivals on the peak. Many were snuggled up in their sleeping bags and silver foil wraps. Clearly more prepared than us. All the huts on the summit were closed until the morning, so we all huddled together against a wall and closed our eyes hoping that time would fly. In fact, it was the longest two hours ever. It was at this point I swore never to complain about the heat again, but if you have read my last post you will know that this promise didn't last long.  

Finally it was time to huddle amongst the hundreds of people to watch the sunrise. The sun was stubborn that day, hiding behind thick layers of cloud. But every so often it broke through the cloud. I snapped a few photos but it was so cold and cloudy that after a quick discussion we decided that we’d seen enough, and began heading down the mountain.  

On the top of Japan with my best friend! You most probably cant tell but I had reached desperate measures to keep warm and decided to use my spare leggings as a head scarf. 
We did it!! All of us enjoying the morning sun, such a great accomplishment. 
What goes up must come down! As we headed down the mountain, below the clouds the morning skies were beautiful and the inspiration for my painting.  I found walking down worse than walking up. I am grateful for my good hiking boots. The lack of grip on many people’s shoes made for 4 hours of taking one step and sliding three feet. It was nice to be basking in the morning sun on the way down and to see the mountain huts bustling with tourists. 

A long line of hikers waiting to get to the summit as we
were making our way down. 
The majority of people had just started the climb, so everyone we passed, we often greeted and wished them luck on their way up! I must have said ohio guasimas (good morning) hundreds of times! I loved that everyone want to talk to us, ask us where we were from etc. there was a great atmosphere. In fact Ali came a bit of a celebrity, at this point he had his Pikachu onesie on and many people stopped to point, laugh and take photos.

Finally about 3 and a half hours later we had arrived at where we had started. Time to face a 2 hour bus journey, no air-con, hard seats, aching limbs…. But nothing could stop us from snoozing!  

Making our way down! Its pretty hard not too spot
the Pikachu 
I agree with the majority of people, Fuji-san does look more attractive from afar than close up. However, the views (when there is no cloud) are incredible and the experience of climbing through the night and the early hours of the morning among hundreds of equally like-minded hikers from across the world is very rewarding. What made it for me was completing it with some of my favourite people. We could have been a little more prepared clothing wise, rooky mistake, but otherwise the climb is not difficult and a very rewarding experience.

On a side note, thank you to everyone who is reading my blog!! I've had over 2500 viewers from around the world. I have a passion for art and would love a career that utilises my talent, but its a tough industry to break into. I am going to keep trying though. 

Marion